Honouring the Easterlies

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It might be colder than you’d expect for this time of year. But being a surfer in Cornwall those easterly winds, blowing for nearly two weeks now, are a real treat.

Surely a surfer’s perception of the world is different from that of non-surfers. A person in his or her right mind wouldn’t get up at 5.30 in the morning to brave the numbing cold of some water just because the tide is right – least of all on an Easter Sunday.

But “we” do. And it’s amazing. Especially when it’s freezing.

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